I need to say two things. The first is, good afternoon to all the curious fashion cats and bougie bitchez reading this article… Comme Une Soleil is back from its lazy-yet-incredibly-stressful hibernation to bring you new content! (You’re welcome)
Secondly, the fashion world’s biannual whirlwind through New York, London, Paris, and Milan recently wrapped up, meaning it’s time for me to give you my biannual snark session. That’s right, it’s high time for me to force my opinions on you via another Hits and Misses article, and personally, I’m really excited for it. You should be too.
As a little background, before I write these articles I sit in a recliner sipping lemon water, shrouded in blankets scouring Vogue Runway for the tastiest and most nauseating looks I can find (this is exactly as glamorous as it sounds). Then, I write about them. It’s as simple as banana pancakes (which I’m definitely craving right now). Ready? Let’s get judgin’.
HIT: Acne Studios
I’m getting started with one of my favorite labels, because why not? Acne, which is known for its minimalist modernity, brought a fresh take on femininity to the runway this season, mixing silhouettes and fabrics in a pastel tones reminiscent of an Easter basket. Vintage themes and skinny accessories dominated this collection, leading many of the looks to seem perfectly fit for Jackie Burkhart’s from That 70s Show’s wardrobe. CUS‘s favorite takeaways from this collection? Translucent maxi slips with semi-haphazard neck scarves and oversized coats cinched with belts no thicker than a shoelace.
MISS: Balenciaga
Some brands can do no wrong. Balenciaga is not one of them, especially recently. They’ve given us nothing but testaments to the cringiest moments of the 80s and early 90s under the leadership of Demna Gvalisa, and this collection has been no different: assaulting our eyes with dresses that look like they’ve been left on the picked-over racks at Goodwill a little too long and structured hip bustles that can do absolutely no good for anyone’s figure. Granted, some of the collection’s more simplistic elements of this collection are immensely wearable, but a true testament of a designer’s worth is its ability to push outside of the basics and do it well, which Balenciaga has not been achieving recently (besides, of course, their exceptionally punchy sock boots). I’m sorry, but sis? Figure it out.
HIT: ECKHAUS LATTA
Budding (blossoming) American label Eckaus Latta is known for its irreverent take on utilitarian pieces, which makes every new collection it puts out immensely interesting, even if that puts wearability at stake. Comme Une Soleil loves innovation, however, and this label’s unorthodox nature coupled with its intersectional model casting makes it one of my favorites to follow recently. I especially love the low-slung midi skirt coupled with a heavy-duty cropped sweater in this collection; a look that conjoins the extremeness of noughties hip-huggers with the androgynous practicality of the late 2010s, bringing them both into a new fashion frontier.
MISS: JILL SANDER
To clarify, I love Jill Sander very, very much. It regularly puts out streamlined, artistic looks that would look perfectly at home on exhibit at the Guggenheim. That’s why I’m so upset about this collection, which is comprised of looks that remind me of the Michelin Man trying to be a street style star (to no avail). Of course, some pieces in this collection were lovely (like this superb red ensemble), and I appreciate the artistry behind all the pieces (I truly do), but something about this collection just missed the mark a bit (it was clunky, unapproachable, and frankly ugly). It’s pretty hard to mess up with simple, monochromatic layering, but I guess nothing’s impossible. A little less marshmallow next time, please.
HIT: Paco Rabanne
Okay, besides on Heath Ledger, who would have ever thought chain mail would be not only wearable, but effortlessly sexy? Apparently the label’s creative lead/metalhead Julien Dossena, who blessed us with a glamorously hardcore collection that somehow looks like one could throw it on when they’re late out the door. He numbed the intensity of the sequined armor with notes of Parisian simplicity and casual footwear, which led to an infallibly beautiful, unique, and shockingly wearable collection that makes the transition from day to night as badass as it can possibly be.
MISS: CALVIN KLEIN
Knocking Raf Simons for being avant-garde is fruitless and near-ignorant: it would be like criticizing Seinfeld for being too dry. However, that doesn’t mean that he can’t make us say, “Whaaaaaaat?” with his sartorial choices. Take for example, his high-fashion take on a firefighter’s uniform, which is such an unglamorous piece it just seems forced to even try to include. The majority of this collection for Calvin Klein is all-over-the-place to say the least, and rides a fine line between inspired and ridiculous (leaning more on the latter side). Only when I think of A$AP Rocky wearing these pieces do they become justified and everything becomes okay. I suggest you do the same.
Okay enough with this very chic game of tug-of-war… here are the creme de la creme of Fall Fashion Month, according to Comme Une Soleil.
WINNERS’ CIRCLE: CHANEL
Oh, Karl, you really are the best of the best. Although not every piece in this Sleepy Hollow-esque collection is entirely wearable (i.e., a lot of curtain-y patterns), the whole thing is totally classic and completely and utterly Chanel with impeccable layering, structured silhouettes, a touch of edge, and more tweed than you would find on every professor at Oxford combined. Some may view Chanel’s classicism as dated, but Mr. Lagerfeld has always been one to challenge those presumptions through subtle twists that would make your grandmother gasp if she took a second look. In this collection? He contrasted elegant redingotes and pearls with thigh-high boots, oversized puffers, and sky-high buns that would make Jonathon from Queer Eye say, “YAS, henny!” Gorgeous.
WINNERS’ CIRCLE: JACQUEMUS
Confession time: I am about 99.8% sure that Simon Porte Jacquemus could kidnap me and leave me for dead and I would thank him (Simon, if you’re reading this, I can send you my address and leave my door unlocked). All jokes aside, however, this lovely young garcon makes impeccable clothing: lightweight, feminine dresses and frocks that are simple as can be (and near-invisible) yet delightfully luxe. Be sure to remember Jacquemus and his genius next time you get invited to an A-list celebrity wedding in Marseilles (and don’t worry if that’s not on the immediate horizon; he’s not going anywhere soon).
WINNERS’ CIRCLE: ALEXANDER WANG
I recently overheard a little boy on the subway, upon seeing an ominous man wearing dark glasses, ask his mother: “mom, are we in the Matrix???” Now, imagine if he would’ve seen this collection, which was apparently inspired by Wang’s experience working at Conde Nast (although a Bella Hadid/Men in Black moodboard seems a more fitting muse). The futuristic athleisure and overly sexy officewear in this show perfectly represent everything Comme Une Soleil stands for when it comes to dress: minimalist yet exaggerated designs, intimidating yet elegant accessories, and of course, lots of black. If I was a secret agent, I’d wear every piece on this runway. Hell, I’d do it even if I had a “disposable income.” Alexander Wang rarely falters, but this collection is exceptional; it serves as a metaphor for every contemporary, kick-ass woman from Rose McGowan to Emma Gonzalez that is not only unafraid to be seen and heard, but also to be a little fear-inducing (and, of course, Neo). Looking forward to your next message from the future, Mr. Wang. If this is all a simulation, I don’t want to wake up. x